Since 15 October Paternoster Chop House has continued serving food only a stone’s throw from the Occupy London protestors at St Paul’s. Head chef Bruce Wilson talks to The Artful Diner about the protests and cooking his way through them…

Visiting Paternoster Chop House in the shadow of St Paul’s Cathedral, I find scores of tents still crowded into the adjacent St Paul’s Churchyard. For more than a month, protesters against the global financial system have camped in front of the cathedral, chosen for its proximity to the London Stock Exchange.

St Paul’s authorities recently decided to let the protestors stay until the end of the year, but what of the businesses on its periphery? I had a chat with Paternoster Chop House’s head chef Bruce Wilson…

Chop House challenges

Paternoster Square, adjacent to the protests and home to the Chop House, is now surrounded by railings and accessible only through a cordon patrolled by security staff. (Basically, don’t try marching in with a tent – however, if you plan on visiting the Chop House, you will be allowed through.) Understandably, people have mistaken the cordon as a sign that the square is closed and businesses within have witnessed a decrease in trade.

Some, like the restaurant’s regulars, have remained undaunted by the security measures and their support has been a real boon, explains Bruce. “It’s nice that some people are saying, ‘No we’re going to the Chop House, regardless of the protests’; that they like us and want to support us. It’s really challenging for the business, but things are getting better.

“I don’t disagree with a lot of what the protesters are talking about but the people that they’re protesting against are not really affected by this.”

Focusing on the best-quality ingredients

The first chop houses in London were set up more than 200 years ago and were based near the markets, which supplied them with the best meat and produce. Bruce’s plan is to tap into that heritage. “We want to turn the restaurant into a modern-day revival of what a traditional London chop house was, using the best cuts of meat from the finest suppliers,” he says.

This straightforward approach is reflected in dishes on the Paternoster menu. “It’s not about a garnish masking the ingredients. It’s about the ingredients themselves.” He is keen on hearty food – solid fare from roast beef to stews and sausages. “The food I cook here is not a million miles away from the food I cook at home: cottage pie, fish pie, that kind of feel-good food.”

Merrett where Merrett’s due

The London chop house may have been a few centuries in the making, but what of Bruce’s cooking background? As for a lot of chefs, his mother was an influence. Her recipe for rice pudding is on the restaurant menu today, albeit made with fresh vanilla pods rather than vanilla essence.

Of later inspiration, chef Paul Merrett seems to have made the biggest impact. Bruce explains: “I went to work for him at Mayfair restaurant The Greenhouse in 2003 and it changed everything for me. He cared about the ingredients and the thought processes behind the dishes.”

Other styles that have inspired him include that of Pierre Koffmann. “The chef I refer back to the most is Pierre,” Bruce says. “The way he relates to food; he’s essentially serving the food from his childhood. It’s peasant food, but he’s making it more precise.”

For now, Bruce has all the inspiration he needs in fantastic produce, from game in Yorkshire to fish from Cornwall. Keeping his menu seasonal and relevant is his goal as the nights continue to draw in and the protestors camp on.

Further information:

Paternoster is open for business as usual and to show your support for the team book here.

Read more about Bruce’s background.